The first time I'd heard of a Goshuinchō was during my planning for my third trip to Japan. I had been twice before; the first time with two friends in 2018 and the second I had intended to travel alone but ended up spending half of my trip with my Japanese friend in Okinawa over the new year of 2018. Although I had discovered and learned so much from these trips, I really felt the need to go alone. Something was telling me I had to do this by myself. So I booked my third trip several months in advance with the intention of it being a solo journey; I didn't have to compromise my time, where I wanted to go and what I wanted to see. I got to make my own decisions in what cultural aspects I wanted to learn about and experience and it was in this exciting time of researching and planning for only myself that I discovered Goshuinchō.
What is it?
A Goshuinchō which means 'Honorable book of seals', is a special kind of accordion fold book that can be purchased at shrines or temples and is used to collect Goshuin (御朱印), a seal which symbolises that specific shrine/temple. Not all shrines or temples have Goshuinchō and Goshuin but most do. The book is taken to the office where for a small fee a priest or monk will write in beautiful calligraphy; the date, shrine/temple name, the houhai (this means 'to worship') and give it a unique vermilion stamp that symbolises that institution. This is a spiritual pilgrimage and the Goshuin should only be obtained if you have made a prayer beforehand.
I have read several blogs on this topic with really in depth information but some state that it is becoming less spiritual and more a hobby and that it is popular among women in particular. As a woman who has spent over 5 weeks on this spiritual pilgrimage, I'd like to touch on a few of these points: Although there are some who treat this as a hobby (including the younger Japanese generation) it is still somewhat frowned upon, particularly by the older generations to collect them for the sake of a 'souvenir', especially as a foreigner as it has such strong cultural and spiritual symbolism in Japan. As 'gaijin' we may not necessarily fully understand the depths of these cultural rituals, so it's important for us to do a little research beforehand. I certainly got a few odd looks from others waiting for their Goshuin seal, although this was perhaps just curiosity or even surprise as many travellers are unaware of this pilgrimage. Through my own spiritual pilgrimage I learned a lot and most certainly got the point of its purpose. I also witnessed many Japanese men of all ages, queuing to collect their seal and therefore from what I have witnessed, it's no more popular among women than it is men. This is not about collecting a pretty piece of art, this is a spiritual journey that anyone can go on, no matter your gender, race, religion or age. Yes, absolutely have fun and enjoy collecting them as that is an exciting part of it, but do it right and pray first! :) Everyone's journey will be different but as long as the respect is there to pray and then collect a seal, that is all that really matters.
Costs
Something to consider before setting off on your spiritual journey is how expensive this can sometimes become; the book itself is anywhere between ¥1500 - ¥2500 (approx. £10 - £15). You may find Goshuinchō in souvenir or stationary shops for a bit less, however, I'd highly recommend spending that little extra by making your purchase at a shrine or temple as the sizes of the books in the shops are not always accurate and by purchasing from the site itself the book is personalised to that specific institute.
The seals generally cost ¥300 (approx. £2), however this can vary for a standard seal between ¥300 - ¥500. There are also limited edition seals that change with the season or with an activity taking place. For example; In Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine they hold a 'wind chime' festival, and during this special celebration they release limited Goshuin. These can vary between ¥500 - ¥1000. Most often, the Goshuin is written by hand into your book, however, in some of the busier shrines/temples they are pre-made for the day ahead to prevent extremely long waiting times (believe me, it can take a while! I once stood in a queue for approx 30 minutes to receive my seal). On most occasions, they will give you a number and ask you to come back later.
How does it work?
Once you've made your prayer, head to the Goshuin office. It's an easy process, however, if you don't know much Japanese or can't read any Japanese, it can be a little tricky to start. What really helped me (because I know very little Kanji) was to look for these symbols within the shrine/temple grounds 御朱印 or simply 朱印. It may even be worth saving in your phone for reference later. If you cannot see this or are not sure then go to one of the windows selling omamori and omikuji (charms & fortunes) and ask here. They should generally understand if you speak slowly and clearly and mention the word Goshuin, but if you are confident to try Japanese, then use these very simple sentences and they will be able to point you in the right direction. They worked for me every time, but be aware, sometimes they don't do them and will say so:
Goshuin wa doko desu ka? - Where is the Goshuin?
Goshuin o onegaishimasu. - Goshuin please.
Goshuin wa arimasu ka? - Is there a Goshuin?
Once you hand over your book (preferably open on the page you'd like) they will write the seal there and then. You will place the Yen into the little tray or box in front of you and they will hand back over your Goshuinchō. As I mentioned earlier, sometimes if it's busy they will either give you a pre-written seal or give you a number to wait and come back for the Goshuinchō. Whether you are visiting a shrine or a temple, there is no need to keep separate books for the two, it's OK to mix them up. Although some Japanese do like to keep them separated, it's not necessary.
My Own Pilgrimage
During my 5 1/2 weeks travel in June 2019, I filled 2 beautiful books. My first book I purchased at Sensoji Temple in Tokyo as I made such a strong connection to this temple on my very first venture. The second I purchased in Eikando Shrine in Kyoto. It was a beautiful place but there was no real significance to purchasing my new Goshuinchō here other than the book was beautiful and I only had a couple of pages left of my first one. Visiting shrines and temples is my absolute favourite thing to do in Japan and I see at least one a day when I'm in the country. They hold a beautiful atmosphere about them and when you're in a city such as Tokyo or Osaka it's a nice way to break up the city madness and reconnect with yourself and clear your thoughts. I'm surprised I didn't know about Goshuinchō sooner!
These Goshuinchō hold so many special memories for me. The pilgrimage for me was an incredible, spiritual journey. I really wanted to reconnect with myself and find out who I was at my core, to remove myself from the material world and delve into understanding what my true values were and what I wanted out of life and to rediscover what really mattered to me. Through this daily prayer and receiving Goshuin, I interacted with so many wonderful priests, monks and staff and when I look through my books there are certain seals that really stand out to me. Not because of how beautiful they are, but because of my conversation with the person writing my Goshuin, thus, taking me back to the shrine or temple, the weather and my surroundings in that moment. There is so much connection to these books that they have become the most precious items I own.
My most prominent Goshuin memory was on 3rd July 2019 when I was visiting a little town called Uji, a 30 minute or so journey out of Kyoto. This town is famous for its matcha and teas and has some stunning temples and shrines also. However, I visited a quaint little shrine called Agata Jinja. There was nothing special about it whatsoever but I was in the area and I chose to pray here. I went to the little window where the priest waited. I asked in Japanese for my Goshuin and handed the book over. But instead of writing in it he asked my permission to flick through. At first he seemed a little suspicious about giving me the Goshuin (although I don't think they can refuse) as he seemed quite stern and a little cold. I thought perhaps he was judging me, thinking perhaps I was wasting his time? I had never had a reaction like his before and so I got a little worried. I'd had very friendly monks and priests speak with me in both English and Japanese, asking where I was from and general, curious conversation, but this reaction was new. However, he began to look quite intrigued and surprised. He began asking questions: Where was I from? How long have I been travelling? How long was I staying? He was shocked by my solo pilgrimage and what I told him it meant to me, why I was doing it. His expressions became much warmer and he wrote my new seal. He loved some of the shrines/temples I'd been to, impressed by the little ones I had found such as 'Shiba Daijingu' in Tokyo. We continued to have a really friendly conversation about life, my seals and hopes for the future, and because of our interaction, I'll never forget the layout of that little shrine, the weather, what I was wearing and that man and what we spoke about. That single moment is with me forever.
This is how powerful this little book is; it's not just pretty calligraphy in a book. It's a spiritual and personal journey, with moments and memories ingrained on each page forever. So if it sounds like it's your kind of thing, then I highly, highly recommend you give it a try. I also feel if you are not into spirituality that maybe you should give it a try anyway, because you never know what you'll discover within yourself, who you'll meet and the memories you'll make. Spirituality is not about being religious, I'm certainly not, it's about discovering yourself and your inner thoughts and beliefs. It's reconnecting to YOU. Give it a try and leave a comment if you have any questions or perhaps want to share your own experience!
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Stevie
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